Thanks for all the guesses! Some of you were very generous in your estimation of my dyeing skills – I hope someday to be able to tackle even more in one day, but I may have to come up with a faster dyeing method…
I piled the yarn and roving I dyed into a plastic tub (after tare-ing the scale to the tub’s weight, of course,) and this was the official weight:
None too shabby! I even had to pull out my metric weight converter to be certain, but in the end, there was only one winner with a near-perfect guess.
That would be Queen Meadow, with her uncanny estimation of 7 pounds 4 ounces (that’s about 3.3 kilos for the metric crowd.) She was only off by 0.2 ounces! (And I quote from her guess: “go ahead and laugh at my guess, I’m sure I’m way off, hehe.” Yeah, right, Ms. Meadow *grins*)
So anyway, congratulations Meadow; here are the colors you get to pick from. Send me an email with your mailing address and choice, and I’ll get it out to you pronto!
As a consolation, look at what I made as a birthday present for one of Squirrel Girl S’s new friends. What a sweet kid I’ve got; she likes her own pair so much, she specifically requested that I knit them up for her friend.
Wanna know how I made them? Alright! (warning: my “pattern” is apt to be a bit loose, and I am assuming that you can basically knit. These mitts are knit in the round and are very stretchy. Also, forgive me if my metric versions of the measurements aren’t quite right – at least I tried…)
One ball of dk weight yarn; I used some Elann Superwash dk that was in the stash.
Size 3 or 4 needles, double pointed or circular to do the “Magic Loop,” however you are most comfortable working in the round. The knit fabric needs to be tight enough to be elastic, but not too dense.
A piece of waste yarn, about 6 inches (15 cm) long.
Stitch / technique guide:
Modified twisted stitch rib from “Conwy” socks (repeated over 5 knit stitches):
R1 *Knit into the first two stitches as if to K2tog, but do not drop them off the needle. Knit into the first stitch, then drop the stitches off the left needle (2 st. on the right needle). K1. P2. Repeat from *.
R2 K3, P2 rib.
R3 *K1. Knit into the back of the third stitch of the grouping, do not drop any stitches off, and then knit normally (from the front) into the middle stitch of the grouping. P2. Repeat from *.
R4 K3, P2 rib.
Repeat these 4 rounds, end on R4.
Thumb Trick (learned from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s books) (there are some good photos here):
When you reach the placement for the thumb, drop the working yarn (do not break!) and knit across the required number of stitches with the waste yarn.
Return the waste-yarn stitches to the left needle, pick up the working yarn, and knit across them as normal. Continue on with the pattern.
Once the mitt is finished, pull out the waste yarn, use dpns to pick up the live stitches that will be revealed on the top and bottom of the hole. Join yarn and being working around. To avoid gaps at the side of the thumb, knit up a couple extra stitches (being sure to twist them) on the first round, then decrease them on the second. Work until thumb is desired length, then bind off loosely.
Cast on 40 stitches using the long-tail, be sure not to make the CO too tight. Divide the stitches over 4 needles (if using dpns), 10 st. per needle. Join in the round, be careful not to twist.
Work in [K3, P2] rib for 2.25 inches (6 cm).
The palm begins on the next round.
Continue rib or any5-stitch patterned rib (I borrowed part of the twisted stitch pattern from Conwy pattern*) over the first 20 stitches. Begin plain stockinette for the palm (20 st.) Work in this manner for 1.5 inches (3.75 cm). (Work measures 3.75 inches (9.5 cm) total.)
Now it’s time for the thumb!
Right Thumb: Knit in pattern across the 20 st. the comprise the back of the hand. On the palm, K1, then do the “thumb trick” over 5 st., knit to the back of hand
Left Thumb: Knit in pattern across the 20 st. the comprise the back of the hand. On the palm, K14, then do “thumb trick” over 5 st., K1.
Continue on as before (rib or patterned rib for the back-of-hand and stockinette for the palm) for 2 inches (5 cm), then in K1P1 rib for 0 .75 inch (2 cm.) End on R4 if you’re using the modified Conwy pattern.
Bind off loosely, or use the Kitchener Bind Off for maximum elasticity.
Remove waste yarn from the thumb-trick. Pick up 12 stitches at thumb (1 extra at each end of the hole.) Knit 7 rounds; bind off loosely.
Make the mitt’s mate, and you’re done!
There now, I hope that makes sense, as it’s my first attempt at writing a pattern for other people. (My own scribbled notes are barely legible to myself, so they don’t count.) Let me know!